A Visit to Mérida
On June 14, 2008, we visited Mérida for three days. Mérida is a three hour car trip from Cancun. We were lucky to have our own personal tour of the city with Thomas Boylan, our marina owner who had lived in Mérida for eight years, along with his fiancé Elizabeth Flores and her son Francisco.
We enjoyed seeing the sites, visiting the beautiful buildings, taking in the local culture on Mexican night (Saturday night) complete with live music and dancing, visiting the local town square's handicraft market and food festival on Sunday and eating the local fare. What a great place to visit!
Mérida is a colonial city, but also a cosmopolitan one. There are beautiful buildings, parks, theaters, art galleries and prestigious universities. Many of the buildings reminded us of New Orleans. We found out why. For centuries, geography made it difficult for the people of Mérida to communicate with the rest of Mexico. As a result, influences from Europe, the Caribbean, and New Orleans were strong in the growth of the city. Its 950,000 residents are tranquil, hospitable people and this makes Mérida a welcoming and fascinating place to visit. They take pride in their city, known as "The White City", known not only for the predominance of white limestone used to construct the city, but also because of its cleanliness... its streets, plazas and parks are cleaned daily. Because of its tranquility and cleanliness, Mérida has become a popular place for other Mexicans to live. Many have moved here from Mexico City, where crime, overpopulation and pollution are growing problems. Crime is not tolerated in Mérida and subsequently Mérida has the lowest crime rate per capita in Mexico.
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Mérida was founded by Spaniard Francisco de Montejo on January 6, 1542. The Mayan ruins reminded him of the roman ruins of Mérida in Spain. When the Spanish arrived, Mérida was a large Mayan city known as Tho. Situated on what is now the Mayan Plaza, it was conquered by the Spaniards, who dismantled all of the pyramids and used the stones as the foundation for the Cathedral of San Idelfonso.
The Cathedral of San Idelfonso
After Francisco de Montejo founded Mérida in 1542, its streets were laid out and the main square was designated for the building of the main city and religious buildings. On the east side of the square, "The Cathedral" was begun in 1562. It took several hundred Mayan laborers 35 years to complete it, finally on January 1, 1597. This cathedral is one of the oldest in the Americas. Only the cathedral in Santa Domingo, Dominican Republic, is older. Built mostly of stones from the ruined Mayan temples, it was a centerpiece of Spanish evangelization focused on replacing the Mayan deities with Catholicism. Its Renaissance-style architecture is austere, with tall smooth walls, a cylindrical cupola and immense towers. Its dome is the oldest in Mexico. The arch in the center of the outside facade frames the national symbol of Mexico, which was sculpted in 1822 to replace the Spanish royal seal.
Inside is one of the cathedral's most impressive works. the black Cristo de las Ampollas (Christ of the Blisters). Carved from birch wood, the figure, perhaps the tallest in Mexico, measures 24.5 feet and is mounted on a 39 ft high cross of mahogany. It is a replica of the original, which was destroyed during the Mexican Revolution. According to local legend, the Christ figure burned all night yet appeared during the morning unscathed--except it was covered with the blisters for which it is named.
Palacio de Gobierno "Government Palace"
The Palacio de Gobierno, built in 1892, houses 27 murals illustrating the violent, bloody history of the Yucatan. The interior arched courtyard, upstairs gallery and balcony display the paintings by Mérida's local artist, Fernando Castro Pacheco (1886-1966).
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On the main balcony stands a reproduction of the Bell of Delores Hidalgo, on which Mexican independence rang out on the night of September 15, 1810, in the town of Delores Hidalgo in Guanajuato. To commemorate the event, the governor rings the bell each anniversary.
Museo de Arte Contemporaneo, the "Popular Art Museum"
Originally designed as an art school and used until 1915 as a seminary, the Popular Art Museum showcases the works of contemporary artists such as Aznar and Ponce. It promotes the different artistic expressions of Mexico's heritage and has six exhibition halls. The current exhibition ending in June is "Laza de Sayula", a now extinct ceramics tradition which is a fascinating legacy of Mexican popular art.
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Casa del Conquistador "House of Montejo"
The House of Montejo, built in 1549, is one of the most beautiful examples of Mexican Plateresque architecture which typically has elaborate ornamentation. Designed by conquistadors and sculpted by Mayans, it is the former home of the conqueror of Yucatan.
The entrance depicts the Montejo coat of arms flanked by two armed conquistadors with their feet resting on grimacing heads, a symbol of the conquest. In the late 1970's, it was restored and converted to a bank.
Mérida's City Hall, Ayuntamiento
The west side of the square is occupied by City Hall, a 17th century building trimmed with white arcades, balustrades and the national coat of arms. Originally erected on the ruins of the last surviving Mayan structure, it was rebuilt in 1735 and then completely reconstructed along colonial lines in 1928. It is the headquarters of the local municipal government and the tourist office.
Paseo de Montejo "The Main Avenue"
Paseo de Montejo is an elegant 10-block tree-lined boulevard which is referred to as the "Champs de Elysse" of Mérida. Palatial beautifully-ornamented residences line the boulevard and were built as a result of the boom in the production of sisal in the early 20th century. Wealthy plantation owners sought to outdo each other with the opulence of their elegant mansions. Inside, the owners typically displayed imported Carrara marble and antiques, opting for the decorative styles popular in New Orleans, Cuba and Paris rather than the style in Mexico City. The broad boulevard, lined with tamarind and laurel trees, has lost some of its former grandeur, as many of its once-stunning mansions have fallen into disrepair. Others are being restored as part of a citywide, privately funded program. We toured the boulevard in a caleso, a horse-drawn carriage.
Museo de Antropolgia e Historia "Museum of Anthropology and History"
Located on Paseo de Montejo, the Museum of Anthropology and History traces the development of Mexico's pre-Hispanic cultures, particularly the ancient Maya, and showcases some of the most important pieces found in Yucatan.
It was once a stately mansion built as the residence for a general between 1909 and 1911. There is marble everywhere as well as Doric and Ionic columns and other Italianate flourishes.
Hammocks
Hammocks are made by local craftsmen in Mérida. Many think that the history of the hammock goes all the way back to the early Mayas, but the word "hammock" is actually Haitian in origin and means "tree". Others believe that the hammock is Polynesian, however, it is not really known if the hammock originated in the Yucatan and was brought there. The hammock is part of everyday life for the Mayan people. The first hammocks were made from henequen, a material grown in the Yucatan. After the arrival of cottons from Europe, hammocks were made of cotton as the wealthy liked the softness and the hammocks could be made much larger. At the present time, hammocks are also made of nylon, but cotton is still the most desirable.
Spanish Hacienda Visit
We had the opportunity to visit a hacienda under construction. Brian Smith, a Canadian living in Mérida, and his wife, a native of Mérida, are constructing a fabulous, authentic Spanish hacienda in the countryside outside of Mérida. Originally the base for the huge henequen business (for hammocks) in the late 1800's, haciendas had tall ceilings, arches, large hanging lamps, sitting areas, shiny ceramic floors, tall door ways and stone areas. Brian, owner of ConSpray construction company, is building the hacienda one phase at a time. His attention to detail is remarkable and his vision is that, when finished, the hacienda will look like it has been there for 100 years. Brian is well on his way to achieving his vision. The construction site is built on rock. Although many of the existing rocks have been used for the house, swimming pool, pool house, workshop and fence, twenty-seven gravel truck loads of rock were moved out to clear the construction site. The house, when finished, will be 7000 sq. ft. and will be a tribute to the true style of the Spanish hacienda.
We had a great visit to Merida. Travelers who visit Merida are a loyal bunch, who return again and again to their favorite restaurants, hotels, museums, and neighborhoods. We now see why. We hope to get another chance to return before we leave Mexico.