Palenque
Palenque lies in the Tumbula Mountains in the midst of a rainforest. Looking like a giant stone mirage emerging from the tropical forest, the magnificent site of Palenque rises in tiers on a hillside draped in mists of the state of Chiapas. It is one of the earliest Mayan sites to be discovered, and one of the best preserved. Palenque, in its day, had some of the most famous architects of the day and used some of the most gifted scribes. Some of the most beautiful examples of Mayan calligraphy can be found at Palenque.
History
Although the site was occupied in 100 BC, the city's remains admired today did not expand until the 7th century. By the early 9th century, its golden age was over, and no new buildings or inscriptions were commissioned. The reign on the last sovereign, Kuk, ended sometime after 784. It is not known for sure what happened to the inhabitants of the site.
Excavations
In 1735, Father Antonio Solis, who had been sent to Palenque by his bishop, was surprised to find some "stone houses" in the forest. But it wasn't until 1784 that the governor of Guatemala commissioned a series of individuals to investigate. In 1785, surveyor and architect Antonio Bernasconi drew a plan of the site and, in 1787, Captain Antonio del Rio concluded that these ruins predated the Spanish conquest and were the work of the Mayan nation. It was John Lloyd Stephens who revealed Palenque to the world in 1841. The photographs below depict what Palenque looked like in the 1830's upon their discovery. The explorers endured terrible conditions (snakes, scorpions, mosquitoes) to reach the ruins and found them covered over with heavy underbrush, vines and trees. Imagine the painstaking work that it must have taken to restore the ruins to their current grandeur.
Museum of Palenque
Opened in 1994, the museum has 300 original pieces from the archeological site. There are a number of sculpted limestone panels of glyphic texts and dynastic bas relief scenes. A major collection of tubular ceramic incense holders decorated with modeled figures illustrates the complexity of Mayan cosmology. The museum was closed on Monday, the day we visited the ruins of Palenque. We visited it on our way out of town on Tuesday. It would have enriched our visit to the ruins had we been able to see some of the spectacular artifacts excavated from Palenque, as well as the mysterious and beautiful tomb of Pacal.
Palenque was built at the foot and on the sides of a specially prepared hillside site. The site covers an area of 6 square miles. Only the Principal Group, which covers an area of 37 acres, has been cleared and is accessible to the public. Hundreds of sites remain unexcavated covered by thick walls of thorn-laden underbrush and trees in the jungle.
Temple of the Inscriptions (Templo del las Inscripciones)
The Temple of the Inscriptions is the funerary monument of Pakal, the first great sovereign of Palenque. The tomb, which lies beneath the temple at the foot of a long staircase was discovered in 1952 by Alberto Ruiz Lhuiller. He discovered a trap door in the floor of one of the temples, and spent the next three years excavating a staircase leading to the center of the pyramid and to an underground crypt that housed an extraordinary sculpted sarcophagus surrounded by a rich collection of jade jewelry. It was covered with a huge sculpted 8 ton slab showing the dead sovereign falling into the fleshless jaws of the terrestrial monster. The ten half-figures emerging from the earth, sculpted on the side of the sarcophagus, represent some of Pacal's royal ancestors. In no other part of America is there a tomb like this. Pakal was buried in luxury and an ostentation to be equaled solely in ancient Egypt. This crypt is on display at the Museum of Palenque.
Mayan Inscriptions
Also discovered in the Temple of the Inscriptions were three panels carved with glyphs that constitute one of the longest known Mayan inscriptions (617 glyphic blocks). The interpretation of the inscriptions has provided the dynastic history of the city from the early 6th century to the time of Pakal (615-83). Information about the names of its rulers and other leading figures, birth dates, marriages and the start and finish of armed conquests have been dated from the information obtained from the glyphs. Palenque's rituals and the accuracy of its calendar has been definitely established.
Pressure Washing the Temple of Inscriptions???
Yes, strange, but true. They were actually pressure washing the Temple of Inscriptions the day we visited. Incongruous, don't you think?? Kinda spoils that "in the jungle and back in time" effect. We rather liked the moss covered version. A blatant reminder that we are simply tourists passing through a national treasure of Mexico for all the world to see!
Temple of the Skulls
The Temple of the Skulls is located next to the Temple of the Inscriptions. It, too, is a burial site. The site is blocked off and cannot be climbed. If you look closely between the square opening and the arch, the carved skull may be seen.
Palace of Palenque (El Palacio)
The Palace of Palenque consists of a platform 246 feet long by 180 feet wide and almost 33 feet high supporting about 15 structures arranged around three courtyards. The complex is the result of almost two centuries of architectural activity which covers at least six reigns. The first structures were built in the 7th century by Pacal. This was a religious complex reserved for the king, nobility, chiefs and priests. This intricate complex of rooms, corridors, underground galleries and patios is decorated with a great many stone and stucco bas reliefs.
This building contains 176 separate items of painting, stone carvings and stucco sculpture that have been called the finest examples of this ancient art in the world today. Unusually, the complex also has a three story tower, the only one of its kind in Mayan architecture, that was probably used as an astrological observatory or a lookout tower. During the winter solstice on December 21, the setting sun lines up from the Palace tower to the center of the Temple of the Inscriptions, where Pacal is buried.
The use of double-vaulted ceilings, Mayan T-shaped air vents, porticos and doorways gave the palace its light and airy atmosphere, especially in comparison to the small dark chambers found at other sites.
Pre-Columbian Aqueduct
A pre-Columbian aqueduct directs the waters of the stream, Otulun, to the center of the city, the only example of this kind of construction in the Maya civilization.
Cross Group (Grupo del la Cruz)
The reference to mythical creatures is clearly expressed in the Cross Group. The complex consists of three pyramid-temples built around a square open to the south. They were built during the reign of King Chan Bahlum (son of Pacal) between 683-692 and represent a three stage cosmic journey.
The Temple of the Cross (currently under restoration) symbolizes the first stage, the origin of the supernatural and mortal world.
The Temple of the Sun emulates the journey of the nocturnal sun-symbolized by the jaguar- through the underworld.
The final stage, represented by the Temple of the Foliated Cross, celebrates fertility and rebirth.
The Palenque style is reflected in the type of roof shown above, known as flying or airborn facades. Present only at this site, it is known for its tall and elegant pierced cresting, decorated with reliefs in stucco and false facades that crowned the real facade. Inside the sanctuaries are fine panels with various religious motifs. The steps to the top of the Temple of the Sun are narrow, steep and high (18 inches) and must be climbed up and down at an angle. Only those in good physical shape can make it to the top on hot, humid days. (Scroll back up and look at the number of steps in the photo!) Did we climb to the top?? You betcha! Right alongside all of the young backpackers... well, they might have made it to the top a little faster than we did!
North Group (Grupo Norte)
This group of ruins was situated on top of a hill looking out over the edge of a mountain... spectacular view of the valley below.
Temple of the Count
The North Group consists of five temples which stand on pyramidal platforms which include the Temple of the Count. In 1832, the artist and adventurer Jean Frederic de Waldeck arrived at Palenque to draw the site. He selected the prettiest ruin and the most nubile of the village ladies and set up housekeeping (thus the name, Temple of the Count). He painted picturesque views of the ruins and forest landscapes and prints of the drawings are on display at the Museum of Palenque.
Group C (Grupo C)
Group C was a small area located near the stream of Otulun. It was reached after a short walk in the jungle. This group of ruins has not been fully excavated and are overgrown with vines and grass. We were able to get a feel for what it must have been like when the explorers first came upon the ruins of Palenque.
The Gardens of Palenque
The entrance to Palenque is beautifully landscaped with tropical jungle plants and flowers. Many of these beautiful flowers may be seen throughout Mexico in arrangements in weddings, restaurants and in hotel lobbies.
Flowering Ginger Red Heliconia Pendula Bird of Paradise
Today's Commercial Palenque
Outside the gates of Palenque, and in front of the Temple of Inscriptions and the Palace, vendors line the walkways to hawk their wares and sell fruit, soft drinks, water and food. Tour buses line up and tourists spill out and fan across the grounds of Palenque. The site never felt crowded. There is so much to see that many of the structures were deserted as we climbed and photographed them.
We took a break after a couple of hours and revitalized ourselves with cold water and fresh watermelon.
Hawking jewelry and woven tapestry purses
The native Lacandon Indians, with their long white shift-like attire and long hair, sell handmade bows and arrows.
Hand-painted canvases depicting the Mayan rulers and Mayan calendars
Did we buy anything??? Nope, not a thing. One thing about living on a boat is you start simple and you stay simple. Temptations such as jewelry, t-shirts, and canvases don't have the lure they once did when we had a home and a place to keep them!
Maya Bell
We stayed two nights at the Maya Bell resort out on the "ruins" road. The charming air-conditioned bungalows ($75/night) are located in a jungle setting. There was a restaurant located on the grounds with excellent pina coladas. A stone swimming pool in a large leafy garden was cooling and relaxing after a day hiking around the ruins. A meeting place for travelers of all types--backpackers, tent campers, families, and RV'ers. An RV pulled up the day after we arrived and, lo and behold, Robert Johnson and his wife Jeanie were not only from the USA, but Robert grew up in West Point, Mississippi. They were an interesting pair... shortly after their Mexico trip was over, they planned a year's trip in Vietnam serving a medical mission on a hospital ship. Such a small world this is! This is one of the things that we like about traveling... you never know what you are going to see or who you will meet, but one thing you know for sure... it will always be interesting!
We enjoyed our trip to Palenque! When we think back about our travels in Mexico, this will surely be a highlight!
We left Palenque, returned to Campeche for another night, then back to Isla Mujeres. When we returned to our little island paradise, it was a sight for sore eyes. We felt like we had been away forever and we were glad to return to the sleepy little island we call home for now.
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